Greetings to all weavers, dyers, tailors, spinners, and textile workers of all persuasions!
The eighteenth annual Fiber, Fabric, & Fun (FF&F) will be held online, on its usual day of November 21, 2020. While we can’t bring you fighting, fencing, fishing, or feasting, we are planning for a day filled with fiber, fabric, and fun.
We are seeking Zoom-friendly classes on all aspects of textiles and clothing, from spinning the fiber to weaving the cloth, to embellishing the fabric, and constructing the garments (bonus points for things I’ve never even thought of).
Here begins the Chronicles of the Courts of the Fourth Reign of Timothy and Gabrielle, King and Queen of Sylvan Æthelmearc, held on the twenty-third day of November, AS 54 (2019), at Fabric, Fiber, and Fighting, in their Shire of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais. Submitted by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson, Jewel Herald of Æthelmearc.
During morning court, at the fighting field.
After a bit of misdirection and subterfuge, to keep the target of their plans distracted, Their Majesties summoned before them His Lordship Bors of Rouen. King Timothy, saying that he could no longer countenance being beaten so soundly by an unbelt, presented THL Bors with a Writ to Contemplate Elevation to the Order of the Chivalry, done by Baron Caleb Reynolds with words by THL Shirin of Susa, and there was much cheering.
THLord Bors fighting as Baronial Champion of the Debatable Lands at Seven Pearls. Photo by Brienne Lochlan.
There being no further business, court was suspended until such time as Their Majesties desired.
That evening, after a day of fine fellowship, considerable classes, and first-rate food, Their Majesties did again call all gentles there present to attend Their court.
After greeting the populace and bidding them seek their comfort, Their Majesties first called before them all newcomers present, and gave to them each a gift of a cup to drink from.
After that, leave was given to Her Excellency Elena de la Palma to address the populace regarding the AE Leads program of service to the kingdom.
Baroness Elena addresses the populace.
Their Majesties next summoned before the throne Lady Annika Iosafova, Their Bagatelle, who spoke to the populace concerning the day’s largesse derby, and the many wonderful donations that were given as part of it.
Lady Annika thanks the populace for gifts of largesse.
Baroness Rowena ni Dhonnchaidh then begged a moment of the crown’s time to present to Them a new day shade she had sewn for the kingdom.
Mistress Rowena delivers a new Kingdom day shade,
The unofficial business of the court being concluded, Their Majesties had called to Them Christobell of the Woods. They spoke of her work to support the shire, doing many thankless tasks, and so saw fit to Award her Arms, with a scroll by THL Sebastianne la Rousse.
Christobell is awarded Arms.
Next, Their Majesties summoned Lady Fede di Fiore, and spoke glowingly of her efforts in the making of period garb. Because of this work, they felt it right and proper to induct her into the Order of the Sycamore, with a Brobdingnagian scroll by THL Sasson de la Sancta Victoria.
Lady Fede receives a Sycamore.
After that, Their Majesties called for young Lord Draven Hastings, and spoke of his constant and unceasing service to the crown as a retainer, and so made him a member of the Order of the Keystone.
Lord Draven receives a Keystone.
That being done, Their Majesties called next for Lady Magdalena Txoperena. They spoke highly of her efforts at garb-making, and so deemed it just to add her name to the rolls of the Order of the Sycamore, with a scroll by Lady Fede di Fiore.
Lady Magdalena receives a Sycamore.
Spying Lady Ania Mhoireach in Their court, Their Majesties had her summoned to Their presence. Word had reached them of her efforts in leather work and illumination, and They saw her good works in these fields, and so named her a companion of the Order of the Sycamore, with scrolls by Mistress Lucretia di Cosimo and Master Po Silvertop.
Lady Ania receives a Sycamore.
After that, Their Majesties had called forward Lord Amano Zenjirou Nakatsune and Lady Oribe Tsukime. They noted their stellar appearance and comportment, and so saw fit to name them to the Order of the Golden Mirror.
Lord Nakatsune and Lady Oribe receive the Golden Mirror.
As these good gentles made to leave, Their majesties bade Lady Oribe Tsukime remain a moment longer. Their Noble Order of the Fleur d’Æthelmearc was called forward, and, voicing their acclaim, Lady Oribe was made The Honorable Lady Oribe Tsukime, and her name added to their rolls, with a scroll by Lady Murdia Drusilla Vettia Portia with text by Mistress Phiala O’Ceallaigh.
Lady Oribe is inducted into the Fleur.
While Their Fleurs were present, Their Majesties desired to add another to their number. Lady Sebastianne La Rousse was called forward and made the newest member of the Fleur d’Æthelmearc, with a scroll by Lady Bubba Blackhammer.
Lady Sebastianne is inducted into the Fleur.
Next, Their Majesties decided that the Kingdom needed to recognize the efforts and works of Lady Etain ingen Ruaidhri. Calling Their Most Noble Order of the Millrind to Them, they received their acclaim, and so inducted Lady Etain into their order.
Lady Etain is inducted into the Millrind.
That being done, Their Majesties demanded the presence of Her Ladyship Rhenna de An t’Eilean Dubh. They spoke of her many years of service, and then had called forward Their Most Noble Order of the Pelican. This Order expressed their desire to have Her Ladyship as one of them, and so Their Majesties issued to her a Writ to contemplate elevation to the Order of the Pelican.
THLady Rhenna receives a Writ for the Pelican.
Her Majesty then spoke of the day’s events, and had called to her Mistress Elyse la Bref, and named her Queen’s Inspiration for the day, and awarded unto her a Golden Escarbuncle, tinted red for service.
Mistress Elyse is named Queen’s Inspiration
Finally, Their Majesties called forward all scribes there present who had contributed to the award scrolls given that day, and gave unto them each a token from Their hands.
There being no further business, court was closed.
All photos by Mistress Arianna of Wynthrope except the picture of THLord Bors, as noted above.
Learn how to make inexpensive cording of various thickness and lengths to match your project. Gold twist cording is used in all kinds of embroidery as early as the 15 century. 1 hour. No limit.
Russian Gold Work Embroidery
THL Cristina inghean Ghriogair
We will be learning the basics of how to apply pearls, beads, padding and waste of time (cording) to Russian style embroidery. Kits will contain materials to finish a bag. Kits include: handout, waste of time (cording), pearls, seed beads, padding, cotton cording, needles, 6” hoop, brocade, linen or cotton for backing, lining, bees wax, threads and draw cords. 3 hours. Limit TBA. $20 for kits.
How to Train Your Slate Frame
Lady Cele OM
How to set up a slate frame for embroidery. Knowing which end of a needle is pointy would be useful. Limited number of kits to go from pile of sticks to set up frame available. Unlimited observers. Students will start with the unassembled frame, sew up the embroidery ground cloth, and sew to frame. See why this method was the way to embroider until the 20th Century: the tension is even and holds like the Hoover Dam. Email if you have a frame that you want to get set up. 1 hour. $20 for kits, 5 available. Free to audit. Contact me if you want to use your own frame for special set up kit. (Contact Phiala for email info.)
Couching: The Medieval-est Embroidery Stitch of All!
Mistress Jaqueline de Molieres
An overview of six variations on couching, when and where they were used, pictures, examples, demos. No actual stitching by students, so no supplies required. Students will go away with an understanding of different types of couching and how it might apply to them and their embroidery projects. I will have examples and photos of each stitch and will demo how they are done. Please bring paper and pencil. 1 hour.
Lady Glenna Cholmondeley
This class will explore the history and techniques used to create yarn using a supported spindle. Supported spindles are ideal to use for fine yarns or more delicate fibers that might not stand the weight of a drop spindle (such as cotton or cashmere). Supported spindles and fibers will be provided in the materials, but students are encouraged to bring their own fibers or spindles they would like help with. 1 to 2 hours. $5 for materials.
Fiber Prep for Handspinners
Lady Glenna Cholmondeley
This class will explore different fibers and fiber preparations and strategies for spinning or felting fibers that may be new to the students as well as recognizing which fiber preparations may be best suited for the skill level and desired outcome by the student. Wools, silks, cottons, and other natural fibers will be explored. This class is suitable for all skill levels. Fibers will be provided in the class materials, but students are encouraged to bring their own fiber samples and fiber prep tools to have questions answered and/or suggestions for dealing with problematic fiber preparations and tools. 1 to 2 hours. $2 for materials
Skjoldehamn Belt Deconstructed
Mistress Elska á Fjárfelli
Learn to make the 24-yarn, 12-strand braided Skjoldehamn belt, with demos on the braid and plausible ways of wrapping the cord and making the tassels. Includes detailed DIY handout. This is a show and tell class, but if you want to start a braided belt and work on it the weekend, bring 12 bobbins, each of two yarns, of twice the length needed (either kumihimo bobbins or pieces of cardboard – check my blog for more info) and I can get you started: http://bookeofsecretes.blogspot.com/2017/10/how-to-make-12-strand-skjoldehamn-belt.html Class length, limits, materials, and special needs (if any). 1 hour. Limit 5 active braiders, auditors welcome.
The Rules of Brocaded Tablet Weaving
Hair of the Naga: How to Weave Fake Fur.
Lady Cele OM
Early Period fake fur was a way to make a shaggy cloth AND still have a sheep for milking, making more sheep and wool. Knowing what a loom is would be very useful. Students will have a small 2 harness loom to work on during the day. They will go home with a woven sample of cloth and other samples. Samples of cloaks and cloth will be available to examine. Students will have a warped (with hand spun) loom to work with, soft spun yarn for weft and separated locks to insert for the fringe. Another method of making a shaggy cloth will be presented as research in process. 1 hour; can be finished during the day. Limit TBA. Fee for kits TBA.
Inventorying the Inventories: A Quantitative Analysis of Garments and Materials in the Inventories of Isabel of Portugal, Empress of Spain
Baroness Elena de la Palma
Recent publication of the full, unabridged inventories of Isabel of Portugal have allowed unprecedented access to information about what she wore, what it was made from, and what adornments it bore. This class will present the instructor’s work to quantify the garments in the inventories: how many of each garment was owned, how often various materials are used for each, etc. Through this class, the student will gain an understanding of what conclusions can be drawn from these inventories to assist in the construction of clothing from Spain, what this information might mean in the context of broader European clothing context, and the limitations and drawbacks of inventories as source material. Access to a sortable, searchable digital spreadsheet will be provided at the end of class and available to students in perpetuity. 1 hour. No limit. Donation for handout welcome.
Luxury Velvets of the Late Fifteenth Century
Baroness Therasa du Domrémy
Students will learn about different types of hat construction and specific techniques of the flat pattern method. You will practice the different basic stitches used in millinery work. Then you will use those stitches to sew millinery wire on buckram three ways and sew on trim. You will learn and practice how to sew on pearls so they stay tight and in place for the next 30 years. Students need to bring: A Thimble that fits well, Embroidery Shears. If you have, please also bring: Sewing Wax, Small needle nose pliers, and 4” or 6” embroidery hoop. The Instructor will provide all other items needed. 2 hours. Limit 7. $2 for supplies.
Intro to Knitting: Make a Monmouth Cap
Mistress Irene von Schmetterling
You will learn to cast on, knit, purl, and other essential knitting tasks. Students should bring a skein of worsted or bulky yarn, preferably wool and Double point or 16 inch circular needle in size 10, 11 or 13. Some needles will be available for use during the class. 1.5 hours. Limit 12.
A Mary Rose ruler for your period sewing kit
Master Bedwyr Danwyn
This is a make & take class where each student can make a 6 inch ruler for their period sewing kit based on Mary Rose recoveries. Great for public demos as well as actual use. 1 hour. No limit. No fee.
Getting Knotty with Posament, the other other form of Viking Era wire work
Lady Mar’itsa Sumnikova
In this class you will learn the origins of tenntrad, the core spun material whose origins potentially lie with the Saami peoples, explore how it got into Viking hands, and learn the knotting techniques used to create one of the pieces found in Grave 944 at Birka. Open discussion is encouraged during this class, as are questions! Experience with macramé or knotting is helpful but not necessary to attend. Handout, materials provided. 1.5 hours. Limit 12. No fee, but donations welcome if you enjoyed the class.
The report of Their Royal Majesties Gareth and Juliana at the Fabric, Fiber, and Fighting event held in their Shire of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais on the 17th day of November Anno Societatis Fifty-Two. Maighstir Uilliam MacantSaoir, Sycamore Herald, reporting.
Their Majesties bid welcome to the populace and invited all who were attending their first event to come forward. Their Majesties welcomed the newcomers by giving them a drinking vessel so that they could enjoy themselves at future events.
Their Majesties gift those gentles at their first event with drinking vessels.
Their Majesties invited Lord Robert MacEwin of Thornhill and Lord Robert Hawksworth before them, Robert and Robert having served the kingdom as Bearers of the Toybox. They bid Their Majesties that another should have this honor, and at the suggestion of the Roberts, Their Majesties bestowed this honor on Lord Eustacius. Their Majesties gave Lord Eustacius di Mecina the toybox and gave him ample time to run before releasing the children.
Their Majesties asked for Baroness Elena de la Palma to come forward. It being her birthday, Their Majesties bid the populace sing to her for her birthday. Upon finishing the song, Their Majesties spoke of Elena’s overwhelmingly generous spirit, her care and dedication to helping people in the SCA and for the purest of courtesy. With that Their Majesties entered her name into the roles of the Order of the Cornelian and gave her a token from Countess Margerite Eisenwald that had been gifted to her by an artisan in the Kingdom of Drachenwald.
Baroness Elena receives a Cornelian
Their Majesties welcomed Lady Dierdre Kildare, seneschal of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais to their presence. Lady Dierdre presented Their Majesties with a gift basket from the Shire to thank them for visiting.
The Shire of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais brings gifts for Their Majesties
Their Majesties invited the Autocrat, Her Ladyship Elys la Bref before them. Elys thanked everyone for attending and called forth Master Bedwyr Danwen, giving him a token for service to the Shire of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais for his work with helping at the event for many years.
THLady Elys gives Master Bedwyr a shire service token
Their Majesties welcomed Mistress Alicia Langland forward, Mistress Alicia begged a boon of Their Majesties to take Elys la Bref as her protegé. This was done in the presence of Their Majesties’ Court.
Mistress Alicia takes THLady Elys as her protégé
Their Majesties then welcomed Baroness Therasa du Domremy, who took on Lady Serena as a student and asked for permission to revisit Their Majesties at Twelfth Night with a charter to begin a Milliners’ Guild.
Baroness Therasa takes Lady Serena as her student
Their Majesties requested the presence of Mistress Phiala O’ Ceallaigh. Mistress Phiala spoke of the wonders of those who came to teach and learn at the event. She then asked Master Bedwyr Danwen, Mistress Rhiannon y Bwa and Mistress Rosalinde Ashworth forward, naming these gentles Fellows of Fabric, Fiber, and Fighting.
Mistress Phiala then begged a boon of Their Majesties, Mistress Phiala stated that as a Mistress of the Laurel, it is her job to notify the royalty when they believe a person is prepared to be a member of the order and how there is a person present that has worked hard for the Fiber Arts, both creating and teaching others and asked Their Majesties to consider this candidate.
Their Majesties asked for this candidate to come forward and summoned Mistress Mahin Banu Tabrizi into Their court. Their Majesties then asked for Their Order of the Laurel, Their Majesties spoke of the good works Mistress Mahin has given to the Fiber and Arts community. Mistress Mahin was then given a writ to consider entrance into the most noble Order of the Laurel. (Scroll by Mistress Graidhne ni Ruaidh). Note: Mistress Mahin’s elevation will take place at Ice Dragon in the Barony of the Rhydderich Hael.
Mistress Mahin receives a Writ for the Laurel
Their Majesties called for Katharina of the Twin Moons. Their Majesties also sought Katharina’s children, who were not present this day. Their Majesties spoke of the work of Katharina, that she has done amazing blackwork embroidery and embroidered items of largesse for the Royalty. For this, Katharina was entered into the Order of the Sycamore and Awarded Arms. (Scroll by Lady Kadlin).
Katharina receives a Sycamore with Arms, and accepts AoAs for her children
Their Majesties then asked Lady Katharina to carry these words to her children, Krystalis Caopziello da Napoli for her work at demos, armoring and heavy fighting, was awarded Arms. (Scroll by Mellen Fenella, Calligraphed by Isabella Montoya)
Rowhan is a heavy fighter, helps at demos and opens his shop to others to help make armor. For this, Their Majesties award him Arms. (Scroll by Mellen Fenella, calligraphed by Isabella Montoya)
Their Majesties again called for Mistress Phiala O’Ceallaigh. Their Majesties spoke of over 25 years of service to the Fiber and Arts community, of her starting the Fabric, Fiber, and Fighting event, and of her work in the Shire of Nithgard and as a local and Regional Seneschal. For her work and dedication, Mistress Phiala was granted an Augmentation of Arms. (Scroll calligraphed by Mistress Antoinette de la Croix, words by Duke Malcolm and Mistress Rosalinde)
Mistress Phiala receives an Augmentation of Arms
Their Majesties ordered the presence of Lord Hrolfr Fjarfell. Lord Hrolfr is well known for his work in Viking age textiles and fiber arts, so much so that there are those who wished to speak with him about his work. Their Majesties then called for Their Order of the Fleur d’Æthelmearc. Lord Hrolfr was granted entry into this order.( Scroll painted by Elys la Bref, Words by Master Fridrikr, Caligraphy by Mistress Antoinette de la Croix)
Lord Hrolfr receives a Fleur medallion from his Laurel, Master Fridrikr
Their Majesties saw Her Ladyship Elska Fjarfelli as she was leaving with the Order of the Fleur and asked her to come forward. Their Majesties complimented her on her research, teaching, and creation of items from the Viking age. Their Majesties then called for their most noble Order of the Laurel. Her Ladyship was then given a writ to consider elevation to this order at a time of her choosing.
THLady Elska reecives a Writ for the Laurel
Her Majesty then asked for Lady Antoinette deLorraine to come forward. Her Majesty thanked Antoinette for the hard work that she had done to make sure that Their Majesties were comfortable and had anything they needed. Her Majesty then gave Antoinette a Golden Escarbuncle, naming her the Queen’s Inspiration for the day.
His Majesty addressed the populace, thanking all who taught through the day and for the fighters who attended the Gage fighting that day. His Majesty reminded the populace that a Crusade was fast approaching and to prepare to travel to the southern lands of the continent at Gulf Wars and show Æthelmearc’s spirit there.
His Majesty exhorts the populace to attend Gulf Wars