By Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

Take a look behind the scenes into the development and production of the Royalty Wardrobe for the summer reign of Duke Sven Gunnarsson and Duchess Siobhán inghean uí Liatháin of the Sylvan Kindom of Æthelmearc, AS 52 to 53 (photos provided by the Royalty).

Want more? Check out our collaboration in detail in The Research behind the Wardrobe, awash with illustrations and resources, and available to download here.

Our Challenge:

By Royal Decree, create three wardrobes which would be plausible in 950 to 1050 AD based on Norse culture and cultures with which the Norse would have been in contact; with minimal Kingdom heraldry. Additionally, for Pennsic Opening Ceremonies, one outfit which emphasized Kingdom heraldry within an overall Norse design.

Wardrobe I – an early Slavic outfit

This wardrobe was inspired by early Eastern European and Russian fashions, specifically as found in the grave field of the Volga region. As many of the typical designs and jewelry choices, like the half moon temple rings, are from a later period, the biggest challenge was to come up with a fashionable design without using the later-period flashy jewelry and elaborate gold-work embroidery.

The Wardrobe Team:

His & Her Garments – medium-weight linen, with silk fabric accents

• Head Seamstress THL Lisette la bergiére

Her belt – wool tablet weave

• Tablet weave by Lady Genevieve O’Connor

Her veil – lightweight linen, bronze spangles

• Assembly by THL Cristina inghean Ghriogair

Her belt & neckline – silk fingerloop braids, cowry shells, bronze bells, and spangles

• Assembly by Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

Her headband – silk and gold thread brocade, with a linen band and spangles

• Brocade weave by THL Hrólfr á Fjárfelli

His kaftan chest embellishments – silk & gold thread tablet weave

• Tablet weave by Lady Genevieve O’Connor

His collar – silk and gold thread on silk fabric

• Embroidery by THL Cristina inghean Ghriogair

His buttons – reproduction pewter Gnezdova buttons

• Button mold and pewter casting by Artemius Andreas Magnus, OL

His belt & pouch – belt and tarsoley set from 10^th century Birka

• Designed and assembled by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Both – a set of Slavic design knives.

• Heft and sheath construction by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Both – 10^th century embroidered turnshoes

• Created by Lord Robert of Ferness

Research

• Luceta DiCosimo, OL
• THL Cristina inghean Ghriogair
• Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

Wardrobe II – the Heraldic outfit

Even though heraldic imagery is not typically found in Norse context, as our Royalty would be presiding over Opening Ceremonies at Pennsic we felt that a little Kingdom pride would not be misplaced. To stay within the spirit of the age, the heraldry is artfully hidden within the patterns of the block prints. Her under tunic is carefully pleated around the neckline for that extra sumptuous look.

The Wardrobe Team:

His & Her Garments – medium-weight linen

• Head Seamstress Baroness Sybilla Detwyller

His & Her block printing

• Design of stamp, carving, and printing by Baroness Sybilla Detwyller

Her heraldic brocaded apron dress trim in red and white silk

• brocade design and tablet weave by THL Hrólfr á Fjárfelli

Her pleated under tunic

• Design and construction by Chrestienne de Waterdene, OL

His belt & pouch – belt and tarsoley set from 10^th century Birka

• Design and construction by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Research

• Baroness Sybilla Detwyller
• Chrestienne de Waterdene, OL
• Álfrún ketta, OL

Wardrobe III – the Anglo-Saxon outfit

Unlike the Slavic outfit where all the cool accessories are from after our chosen timeframe, in the case of Anglo-Saxon fashion the well-known designs and jewelry — like the shoulder fibulae — are from a much earlier period. To emulate the (ecclesial) opulence of the period this outfit depended heavily on copious metal brocade and embroidery.

The Wardrobe Team:

His & Her Garments – medium-weight linen

• General construction by Etain ingen Ruaidri

His & Her silk and metal brocade trim

• Brocade tablet weave by THL Silvester Burchardt

Her woolen belt with carved bone buckle and end piece (not worn in picture)

• Tablet weave by Lady Genevieve O’Connor
• Bone carving by Cynwyl, OL

His belt & pouch – belt and tarsoley set from 10^th century Birka

• Design and construction by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Research

• THL Silvester Burchardt
• Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

Wardrobe IV – the Norse Rus outfit

Everyone likes block-printed fabrics and we are no different. This design was ideal to highlight the amazing art of one of our artisans, and also to provide the Royalty with single-layer summer weight Pennsic garments.

The Wardrobe Team:

His & Her tunic and dress

• Head seamstress Noble Rhys Penbras ap Dafydd

His & Her klappenrock and Birka coats

• Seamstress THL Abigale Kelloge
• Help with assembly by Michelle DeBuyser
• Help with assembly by THL Moniczka Poznanska
• blockprinting coat trim by Fredeburg von Katzenellenbogen, OL

His & Her block-printed fabrics

• Printed by Freiherr Fridrich Flußmüllner

Her glass bead and embossed silver necklace (not shown in photograph)

• Glass beads by Artemius Andreas Magnus, OL
• Embossed silver pendants by Rob ‘Rayleon’ Podkowa

His kaftan posaments (not shown in photograph)

• Made by Lady Alita of Hartstone

His belt & pouch – belt and tarsoley set from 10^th century Birka

• Design and construction by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Sourcing period correct ball buttons (not shown in photograph)

• Countess Anna Leigh

Research

• Álfrún ketta, OL
• Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

Bonus! Wardrobe V – the Mammen outfit

While the connection between embroidery and Norse culture is not quite as clear as one might hope — with the embroidery remnants more likely being an Anglo-Saxon textile pillaged from a British Isles monastery — the highly embroidered museum-recreated Mammen outfit is too good to be true and makes for an excellent Royal wardrobe.

The Wardrobe Team:

His & Her garments

• Head Seamstress Lady Syele Pfeifferin

His & Her Embroidery

• The Stag by Lady Aurelie of Nithgaard
• The Acanthus Leaves by THL Renata Rouge
• The Tree of Life by THL Cristina inghean Ghriogair

His & Her weaving of trim

• Tablet weaving by Lady Genevieve O’Connor

Her embroidered turnshoes

• Created by Lord Robert of Ferness

His block printing of Large Faces

• Fredeburg von Katzenellenbogen, OL

His belt & pouch – belt and tarsoley set from 10^th century Birka

• Design and construction by Lord Snorri skyti Bjarnarson

Research

• Elska á Fjárfelli, OL

 

The Royal Wardrobes Project was set up in the less-traditional way of utilizing up-and-coming artisans from around the Kingdom. The Wardrobes Project was created as a collaboration between many different artists whom were part of both the initial design discussions and the practical constructions as much as they desired. The Project is set up to be a learning opportunity for all involved and to be a source of additional information, to take home and use for our own personal wardrobe projects. And I hope it will inspire you, too!